Still somewhere between being asleep and awake but favouring the former, I rolled over and tried to ignore whatever commotion was going on outside. Living in the very centre has definite advantages, but every silver lining inevitably has a cloud and it’s noisy until the early hours and then starts again from daybreak, but I’ve learnt to like it, and the general buzz of city life is the background to my sleeping. However, I draw the line at the full brass band, drums and marching that disturbed my happy slumber at the unearthly hour of 9 this morning. Having been dragged reluctantly to consciousness, I remembered that today is Italian liberation day, and immediately leapt from bed, curious to see how elaborate the Italian’s were making this celebration. From my window, I could see rows and rows of white helmets marching down the main street in perfect unison, aside from the two stragglers at the back, it has to be said. They kept stopping to look at shoes in the shop windows! Following them was a police escort, comprising of four armoured cars, and an ambulance. From the disgruntled look of my neighbour, who also came to his window to see what had got him out of bed, he shared my belief that four armoured cars was perhaps a little excessive. They’re nothing if not dramatic.
Later in the main square, Piazza Bra, the festivities continued, as did the excessive police presence. The Ayuntamiento was adorned with Italian flags and the red carpeted steps were topped with important looking people. The city’s five free local papers were out in force, but seemed rather unoccupied until a group of hippies began chanting and waving banners with “El circulo Pink” (The pink circle) emblazoned on the front. I don’t know what this signified, but from the sight of armed police officers charging towards them, I’m guessing it’s not what they wanted to see. I moved a good distance away to watch what would happen next. Confrontations, arrests? Just photos as it turned out. Look this way boys, a photographer called to the armed police. 11 heads turn sharply and in sync towards the camera, confirming my belief that a chiselled jaw, moody face and fully reflective designer sunglasses are job requirements of the Italian police force. Those who don’t fit the criteria must instead join the department that have to wear the silly white hats, not nearly so affective in chatting up women on your beat.
Later on in the day, we stumbled across a protest around the edge of the centre. The ethnic minorities and immigrant population of Verona were campaigning for equality in the workplace and in society, with most of the banners alluding to the extreme right views of the newly elected Lega Nord and their intolerant attitude towards foreigners. The protest itself was big and noisy, with music, singing, chanting and shouting. And the mix of people was really diverse, from all different races, ages, social groups, all coming together on liberation day, asking to be treated equally. It then seemed slightly ironic that they were refused entry to pass through the centre of the city by not four but eight armoured police vans, meaning that the tourists and people of Verona could enjoy lunch in the sunshine in peace, blissfully unaware that the marginalised people of the town were protesting, well, on the margins of the city, just outside the walls. Out of sight is out of mind, it seems.